Upgrading a 14-amp System to the Denso Alternator - Ural

First, you will have to identify some wires on the regulator, as you will need to use two of them.

With a test light or meter ready, turn the ignition on. Two of the screw terminals on the regulator should have +12 volts. One of them will be the feed to the dash lamp; the other is a 'hot' wire that supplies the regulator with its initial start up current. The 3rd is the feed to the rotor of the alternator and won't be used. It may have a reduced amount of current available.

To determine which of the two is the 'hot' wire, turn the key off and unhook one wire. Make sure it doesn't touch anything. Now test that wire with your tester - if it has current, you have the hot wire. Label it.

If the first wire you test isn't hot, check the other wires on the regulator until you find the correct wire by elimination. Again, label it when found. Whichever wire you selected, test it again when the key is off to make sure it is NOT hot.

Reconnect the hot wire temporarily. Now unhook the one you think is the dash light and turn the ignition back on. If the dash light is now off you have found the dash light wire. If not, there's only one left... test that one to be sure. Label the correct wire 'dash light' or something.

Now that you have these two wires labeled, remove them from the regulator and move them into the area of the alternator. Tape up any other wires that were connected to the regulator. It's not a bad idea to record which wire went where in case you have to go back to the 14-amp unit.

Remove the wires from the alternator and tape them up. Mark them too if you want to be able to switch back.

Remove the 14-amp alternator from the engine.

Remove the adapter from the Denso alternator. Mount it loosely on the engine.

While wiggling the cush drive, slowly rotate the outer portion of the adapter (tight one way, loose the other) until you can 'just' feel/hear a very slight amount of play. Tighten the adapter down so it doesn't move, rotate the engine over a bit by hand with the kickstarter and check it again. Adjust if needed. Repeat this a couple more times.

If you get different results at different spots, it's best to find the tightest spot on the gears and set it per the above process there. This means it will be a tad loose at other places, but this will stress it less than having it too tight at others.

Tighten the retaining nuts down.

Reattach the alternator to the adapter.

Put spade lug connectors on the wires labeled '+12 volts' and 'dash lamp'. Plug the dash lamp into the left terminal and plug the hot wire into the right terminal.

The wire used by the old alternator to send current to the battery is too small to carry the current from the Denso. I'd suggest using at least 12 gauge or larger from the alternator + terminal to the + terminal of the battery. I'd also recommend putting an inline 50-amp fuseholder at the battery end to protect from accidental shorts.

You are connected. At this point when the key comes on the dash light should come on also. Once you start the bike, the light should go out.

Now get out and ride!

This Page was last updated: Monday, April 21, 2008 at 1:07:20 AM
This page was originally posted: 2/4/05; 5:38:36 PM.
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