CRAWFORD SALES COMPANY
 

Home

About Us

Ural Models

Royal Enfield Home (updated 03-10-08)

Ural Inventory

Dealer Prep

Parts

Service

Accessories & Trim

Performance & Upgrades

Tools & Maintenance

IMZ Accessories / 750 Engine

Web Links

News and Events (updated 04-19-08)

Used Bikes (updated 02-11-08)

Crawford's Trip to Russia 2005

Articles - Helpful Hints for Owners, by Owners

 

IMZ- Ural Motorcyles, Parts, and Service in Southeast Michigan  

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH

THIS ARTICLE WAS WRITTEN BY VANCE BLOSSER AND PUBLISHED HERE WITH HIS PERMISSION.

Stuck Brake Light Switch

OK, you've got a stuck brake light switch. The problem is, there are 2 switches so you have to figure out which one. It turns out this isn't too hard, if you are logical about it.

Down by the foot brake, close to the transmission, you'll see a rubber 'bulb' with 2 wires going into it. This is the rear brakelight switch. Tug the rubber cover off, you'll see 2 wires plugged onto the switch. Pull one of them off, and keep it from touching the bike anywhere (tape it up if you have to, or get a helper). Now, turn on the key. If the brake lights still come on, it's NOT this switch, go to the front switch routine.

BACK SWITCH BAD or STUCK (light went out when you pulled the wire off): First, go ahead and remove the other wire (it doesn't matter which goes where when you put it back together). Unscrew the switch (you may have to loosen the lock nut that holds it in place). After it's out, reconnect the wires, turn on the key, and press the button in - the brake lights should go out. If they do, it's an adjustment issue - if they don't, you need a new switch. (Sometimes you can spray some WD40 in the pushbutton area and get a bit more life, but it's gonna fail again so go ahead and get a new one).

ADJUSTING REAR BRAKELIGHT SWITCH (you got a new one or are re-installing the working one you have). Run the adjustment nut pretty far up the shaft, close to the switch housing. The idea here is that you want the switch to stick out JUST ENOUGH to push the button and kill the light, so the light will come on as soon as you press the brake pedal. A small mirror can come in handy so you can see when the button touches the brake rod tab. Use a test light, a meter, or put the wires back on and test to make sure the switch turns off when the pedal is up and turns on when down. Once you find this position, tighten the lock nut. If you turn the switch too far down the brake tab will beat on the end of it and can cause early failure. Replace the wires and the cover and drive! You may have to re-tweak the adjustment if the switch wears in a bit.

FRONT BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH TEST - same procedure as the rear, except the switch is mounted on the handlebars. Again, remove one wire and test to see if the brake lights go out - if so, this switch is bad or misadjusted. The procedure and goal is the same as the rear switch, except the switch hits the brake lever instead of the rear brake rod.

When working, make sure the terminals do not touch the frame of the bike or you will blow the brake light fuse.


This Page was last updated: Monday, April 21, 2008 at 1:07:38 AM
This page was originally posted: 6/14/04; 10:00:06 PM.
Copyright 2008 CRAWFORD SALES COMPANY